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Amman to Paris to Chicago

It’s kind of odd being back home after 2-weeks of living out of a suitcase. Funny how you make new routines for yourself. Like always having some pocket change so you can buy a bottle of water at a little shop. Or trying to spend bigger bills in bigger stores so you can get smaller bills for taxis. Or just having a limited choices of clothes to wear - which I think is rather nice actually. Of course hand washing them in the hotel sink isn’t that much fun.

My journey home started around 10 PM on Tuesday at my hotel in Jordan. Abu George, my favorite concierge, had booked my car to the airport so I settled my bill and was out the door by 10:10 PM. Most hotels in Amman can book cars for you but they cost at least 25 JD (plus a little tip for the Driver). Its much cheaper to have a friend to pick you up (give them some cash tho, they might not take it but its the thought that counts - gas is around $7 a gallon right now) or if traveling light the bus is only a couple JD. An actual cab might be cheaper too.

I enjoyed the ride to the airport - just around 35 minutes, with no traffic. Amman is beautiful at night - all the city lights draped across the hillsides, and the stars twinkling above. The terminal at Queen Alia airport is not exactly intuitive for departures. There are a few monitors and a sitting area, but no visible counters to check in. I was about to head for a security checkpoint that said “Departing Flights” or somthing like that when I was approached by a blue suit. I’m not sure who blue suits are - but they are young guys who wear Crayola Blue jumpsuits with Royal Jordanian on them. But they seem to work for the airport. They like to help you find your bag or, in my case the other night, the departures counter. For a small tip, of course. Small, that is, if you’ve remembered to keep a pocket full of smaller bills.

The blue suit was actually helpful this time, as I had forgotten that in Amman there is this security checkpoint before the ticket counter. This is comprised of a ticket/passport check, and baggage scan and metal detector walk-thru - just like in the US. It’s just a different order than we Americans are used to, but it actually kind of make sense. Why even have people at the ticket counters unless they have been screened through security?

So, then I was in the Amman airport for a couple of hours. I did some duty-free shopping, sat at a cafe (Amman airport has Pizza Hut, Popeye’s Chicken, two World Cafe’s, a Starbucks and a Cinnabon - go figure), and was generally bored waiting for my gate to finally open. They have another security check at the gate (baggage scanner and metal detector walk-thru), which in my opinion is a bit annoying. Why two full security check points? Anyways, you can’t sit right by the gate until just before your flight. The monitors said the gate was open, but it clearly wasn’t. Even so, people started lining up. I watched the queue grow for about 20-25 minutes until finally the checkpoint was opened. I sat for another 10 or 15 minutes while the line worked its way through. From the conversations I overheard most of the travelers seemed French or at least french-speaking europeans. I couldn’t figure out why people would stand in line for that long if they didn’t have to. After all we were all waiting to get on the exact same airplane that we all had assigned seats on. It’s a mystery to me.

The flight from Amman to Paris left a bit after its scheduled departure of 1:45 AM. They served a light snack (finger sandwich and drink) before turning down the cabin lights. It was only a 4 hour flight and I thought I would sleep the whole way. Unfortunately I was in an exit row on the window with two other guys next to me. Let’s say we were probably all on the larger side of average. Being an exit row there’s the door kind of curving out into my space, and then a large guy on my right, and no reclining seat. I didn’t sleep much.

Arriving at Charles De Gaulle at 5:45 AM was kind of an adventure. It is a huge airport! One of the biggest I’ve been in. I’m actuallyglad it was so early in the morning because it was nearly deserted (I couldn’t imagine doing it for thefirst time with a ton of people around). So deserted actually, that people from my flight hit the customs stamper guys before they were even on duty! That was kind of funny.

I spent around 7 hours in Paris. Pics from the Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame du Paris were in previous posts. I am giving some detailed tips on navigating the transfer from Flights to Trains at Charles De Gaulle in my next post.

I made it back to the airport in just the nick of time from my exploration of Paris. I literally waited 10 minutes at the gate before getting in line to board.

The flight to Chicago from Paris was great. The plan was configured 2-3-2. I had a K seat (window on the right - they obviously skipped some letters). The J-seat on the aisle was occupied by a french lady. Apparently a friend of hers was across the aisle. I tried exchanging pleasantries in French, which actually didn’t go over as poorly as I had expected. She obviously preferred to talk to me in English, but wasn’t condescending about it as a few others had appeared to be during my time in Paris.

We did sit at the gate and then on the tarmac for awhile. Finally, it was announced that we were 3rd in line for the runway. Most people were reading, dozing off, or experimenting with the touch screen entertainment system mounted in the seat backs in front of them. Except for an older Asian-looking man, who was making his way down the aisle. To my surprise he stopped by our row and leaned down to speak in french to the women sitting near me. The woman in the J seat got up and followed him back up the aisle towards the front of the plane.

I kept a disinterested eye on them over the top of my newspaper. They disappeared behind the curtain into the first class cabin. The plane was starting to roll forward, closer to the take-off runway. The curtain opened and the J-lady appeared sans the french speaking Asian man. I carefully studied some news article in front of me. J-lady sat back in her seat, speaking animatedly in French to her friend across the aisle. When they were finished I asked what had happened.

J-lady explained that the man was their boss and he had an empty seat next to him in 1st class. He wanted one of them to come up their and keep him company. I smiled and thought that such a request could be a blessing or a curse on a 9-hour transatlantic flight. Depends on your job and your boss, I suppose. Turns out that they work for a gallery in Paris and were on their way to a big art show in Chicago.

I dozed off as the plane took off and woke up after we had reached cruising altitude. J-lady leaned over and wished me a good flight, saying she was going to sit next to her boss. Not sure if she drew the short-straw or not, but I figured I was the lucky one as I now had two seats to myself for the next 8.5 hours or so. I settled in to watch a movie (The Kite Runner), right after I had set her entertainment console to the birds-eye camera view so I could keep an eye on our progress high above the Atlantic.

The rest of the flight was uneventful and I watched movies, napped, and ate airline food.

I walked into my apartment around 6:15PM on Tuesday - 20.5 hours elapsed on the clock since I left my hotel in Jordan - 28.5 hours elapsed in real-time. It was so very good to be home.

Pics around the Eiffel Tower

I jumped the Metro near Notre Dame and rode to the Place du Mars stop. The Tower is only a couple of blocks from the station. I had to switch trains at Invalides for some reason, but it just meant standing on the same platform for a couple of minutes until the next train arrived. I arrived at the Tower around 9:25 AM and only had 45 minutes to check out the tower, because I figured I needed to start back to Charles De Gaulle by 10:15 AM at the latest. I wandered around the base, snapping a few pics. The line for the elevator was already quite long. Gaping upward and all around in typical tourist mode, I noticed a very small line at the 1/2 price stairs line, due to open at 9:30. C’est bon! So I put my week of hustling up stairs in Amman to good use and after plunking down €4 made my way up to the Priemier Etage where I enjoyed the view, some espresso, pain au chocolat, and the satisfaction of beating the huge line for the elevators that snaked across the courtyard and into the street. Here are some pics. Enjoy!

Notre Dame du Paris pics

When I was making plans for my layover in Paris, I thought it best to just focus my time on one area. I chose Notre Dame, thinking I would go up on top of the towers, walk around the Ile de la Cite and Ile St-Louis, see the stained glass in Saint Chappelle, walk along the Seine, etc. But here’s the deal - it was chilly, overcast, rain was forecast, and nothing was really happening around Notre Dame at 8 AM on a Tuesday in April. So I scouted around the outside of this magnificent cathedral, enjoyed the bells tolling from the PLace du Parvis, and walked around a bit. I thought touring the inside (and nearby Saint Chappelle) and climbing the tower would be best on a brighter day. So after an hour or so I made my way over to the Eiffel Tower, opting to bag two landmarks in cursory fashion on this layover.

Here are the pics from Notre Dame, and a video with the bells tolling. Enjoy!

Saying Goodbye (for now) to Amman

Ok . . .Funny thing happened - this last post from Jordan got lost in the ether somewhere. Actually I was rushing to get it done and finish packing and hit “save” instead of “publish.” Ooops. Well here it is. You may also notice my Paris entry is gone. I’m re-working that one, into something a little more reader-friendly. Will post more on Paris and my final thoughts on Jordan in the next few days.

Well, my week in Amman has drawn to a close. 3 out of 4 of us are registered for various schools and we have two solid leads on apartments!

Here are a few random things to close out the week

  • I was mistaken 11 times as an Arab, 4 times as a Spaniard, 3 times as a Brit and once as French. And probably pegged quite quickly as American most of the rest of the times.
  • Jordan is a very hospitable country - I felt safe and welcome all week. When people found out I was American they were curious in very positive ways.
  • Out of dozens of cab rides I only had 1 bad one. The guy was screaming into his cell phone and my window wouldn’t go down (they don’t believe in AC for cars). I was sweating profusely and wishing I knew Arabic.
  • Jordanians are not all Palestinian. Those whose families have always lived on this side of the river very proudly identify themselves as Hashemites and distiguish themselves from Palestinians or Iraqis or other immigrants. (You may have seen it called the “Hashemite” Kingdom of Jordan. The Hashemites are a tribe that trace their lineage back to Muhammad).
  • Along those lines I did meet many people with Palestinian roots - they were always quite surprised to meet a foreigner (and American) who could talk with them about their homeland.
  • Clothing runs the gamut. I saw local men dressed in shorts and t-shirts, khakis and polos, business suits, traditional garb (long robes with khafiyehs) - but my favorite were the older men wearing long robes, a sports coat and a red checked-khafiyeh. Wish I had enough nerve to take a picture
  • Women’s clothing (for locals) also ran the gamut. From jeans and t-shirts tighter than you might see in the states, to jeans and long tunic type shirts, to conservative dresses, to fully covered from head to toe in black. Of course there are various stages of head covering too.
  • Christian churches play music and services over loudspeakers on Sunday AM, just like Mosques broadcast the call to prayer daily.
  • Oh - I did have one other taxi incident on a roundabout - but it wasn’t the drivers fault. I was almost T-boned. And I’m not talking about a steak.
  • Reem cafeteria still serves the best shawerma in the city. Contrary to the guidebooks they are not open 24 hours. They close when the giant spit of shawerma is gone. I got the last 2 shawermas the other night at 2:30 AM, much to another guy’s chagrin.
  • Hashem’s serves the best falafil and hummous in town - but I am still trying to figure out it’s system. It’s literally in an alley marked only in Arabic - there is no menu, and no one is willing to speak English. But each time I’ve gone I feel like I’ve figured out another piece of the puzzle. And each time I eat my fill and walk away paying around 1JD. Can’t beat it. A fun game is to sit on the balcony at the Auberge Cafe (sorry - men only) and watch confused (mostly older) tourists walk in the alley with guidebooks, look around, try to talk to someone and then walk away.
  • OK - I could probably go on, but have to finish packing. The Jordanian people are very warm-hearted and its been a joy being here. Having some good ex-pat friends (both old and new) to provide some assistance and advice here and there was a plus too. I can’t wait to be home and see my family - but I leave a piece of my heart in this city as well, and hope to return soon.
  • Here are a few last pics. Enjoy!

PS - We got word today that the Ministry of Education approved our son’s entry into KG (see previous post). This is very good news!

More Prayer Needed

Thanks to those who have been praying re. our apartment decision.  We have decided to wait to make a decision after I am back home.  This way we can talk face-to-face, pray together, and I can show my wife some longer and higher quality video of each place.  Both of the current tenants are fine with this and the money situation (for securing the apt) is not as dire as I first thought.

On another prayer note:

I found out we may have some trouble with our son’s schooling in the fall.  Basically we kept him in pre-school in the states this past year because his birthday falls after school starts.  So he would’ve been a very young 5-year-old going into kindergarten.  We thought it would be better fro him being a very young 6-year-old.  Well - apparently here in Jordan they view starting ages much differently.  Apparently they just look at calendar year of birth and not month.  So as 6-year-old this year he is not eligible for kindergarten, just 1st grade.  To go to 1st grade at a local school near where we will be studying we would have to have a residency visa, which we will not have this year.  (residency is not required for Kindergarten enrollment).  Out only options for 1st grade without residency would be expensive schools on the other side of town.

We did know about this ahead of time, but were told by the school director that it would be ok.  Well today, when I turned in papers and a deposit I was told differently.  Calls were made, and apparently we are waiting for permission from the ministry of education to enroll him in kindergarten.  This is very frustrating.  Please pray that everything works out for the best.

Gotta run - will try to post one more time from Jordan, and perhaps once from Paris.  My flight leaves at 1:45 AM Tuesday morning local time.

Random Pics from Amman

Here are some random pics I’ve taken over the last few days, but haven’t yet posted. As always click on the pic to get a larger version. (Then you can also see if I added any further description of the picture) My apologies if I duplicated anything. Enjoy.

Prayers Needed

Hey folks! Thanks for taking an interest in my trip to UAE and Jordan. I have appreciated everyone’s comments, and just the fact that people are looking and reading. You set page-view records for my blog the other day - over 200 views!

Sorry, I have no pics today. It was an apartment hunting morning followed by a company meeting and then a lot of thought and reflection on my part.

I currently have 2 viable apartment options. The differences between the two are subtle, but in some ways significant. One is much larger and probably better suited for hospitality and entertaining. The other is in a building with friends and other ex-pats with children. They are in the same neighborhood, just a street away from each other and comparable in price (the larger one is slightly more expensive, but reasonably so and well within our budget).

So - for those of you out there who are praying folks - please pray that I would have wisdom in making a good decision for my family in the next couple of days.

Sabaa’ al’Khair!

Call to Prayer over Amman

This was the afternoon call to prayer today. I was sitting on the highest hill in Amman. It was pretty cool to hear the call coming from loudspeakers from all over town and echo around the valleys. Unfortunately I only got two short clips at the beginning before it really got going. My batteries went out and I had left my extras in the hotel room!

NOTE: If you are having trouble with the videos, try this.  Click on the video.  Pause it.  Wait for the grey bar to extend all the way across, then click play.  This should let you see it smoothly if you have a slow connection.

The Citadel (Jebel al Qala’a) in Amman on Friday

Today was Friday, the Muslim holy day. IT’s kind of like Sunday in the States, I suppose. A lot of shops are closed. Many people go to the mosque for prayers and a sermon. Most people have time off from work (Friday and Sunday are typical days off here - Saturday is often a workday) and spend time with family. Maybe like Sunday in the States a few decades ago.

Personally, I slept in and then made my way over to the Citadel. It’s not really a fortress (as the name would suggest) but the ruins of a number of important sites including an Umayyad palace and Roman temple and forum. It’s on Jebel Qala’a, which is the tallest hill in Amman at 850 meters above sea level (2788 ft - my phone has a conversion function - cool, eh?). It makes a lot of sense to build here - it’s got great views of the rest of the area and would probably be easy to defend.

I spent a few hours up there just rambling around. There’s rumors of a secret passage down to the ruins of the Roman amphitheater. I didn’t find it. Maybe Noah can help me when we move here in the fall.

I spent a lot of time just sitting in the shadow of one of the huge pillars at the ruined temple to Hercules built during the reign of Marcus Aurelius (The guy who Maximus served in the movie Gladiator) circa AD 170. I had a commanding view of Ashrafiyeh - the neighborhood we are most likely to move in to this fall. I sat there and thought. A lot.

I’m not going to bore you with all the details, but one thing kept running through my thoughts. The fact that God has been at work in this land among so many different kinds of peoples for so long. He was concerned for and loved the Romans who built an imposing edifice to their god Hercules and a forum which is now just a jumble of rocks and boulder.  He loved the Byzantine Christians who built a church here.  He was concerned for the Umayyads who built the palace, worshipped in the mosque, and shopped in what is now just the dusty trace of a souq. He loves the Jordanians and so many others who are living, working, laughing, loving, eating, fighting, dying, sleeping, and everything else in this massive and bustling city. And he loves you and me. Just the same. The the Romans, Byzantines, ancient Arabs, modern Jordanians, you and me. Loves us all, works among us - even when we don’t notice.

I wonder what this city will look like 1800 years from now? 1400? 500? 100?

Will someone sit atop this hill and contemplate what happened in this great city circa 2008? Or over in Ashrafiyeh? Will there be a jumble of ruins? What will the ancient stones say about the people who lived and worked, laughed, loved, ate, fought, died, and slept in this magnificent place around the turn of the 21st century?

Enjoy the pics.

Good night.

Middle Eastern Mezze for Supper

Mezze for Supper in Amman

So this was supper last night. I picked up the elements at shops on the way back to the hotel on my walk from Ashrafiyeh to Jebel Amman. In total it all pcost probably around 3 or 4 dollars - and could have easily fed 2 people. I ate the leftovers for breakfast this AM. These would traditionally be mezze or starters/appetizers at a sit-down place. Or indeed the main course in many places around the ballad.

Starting with the white stuff on the upper left and going clockwise:

Labaneh - this is a strained yoghurt typically made from goats milk. Sort of like sour cream, sort of like cream cheese. If you’ve had greek yoghurt it is very similar. Used in cooking or as a dip for bread. Typically served with Olive oil and spices on top. When I was in Palestine they served it with hot peppers on top. I wish I would have thought to find some!

2 Liters of Water - Self-explanatory. Just want to note that it is really pretty easy to get dehydrated walking around Amman all day.

1 Liter box of OJ - A little vitamin C in a box to fight off the scurvy!

A Huge Flat Bread - You can see the pics of the guy making this stuff over near the ballad in my previous post. This is not the typical khubez. It is thinner, bigger, and somewhat chewy. I’ll have to find out what they call this - it’s really good.

Hummus - A blend of chick peas, tahini (sesame paste), and spices. Very tasty. If you haven’t have Palestinian style hummus stop by Pita Paradise in Carol Stream (for you Chicagolanders). Otherwise, come visit us in Jordan this fall. Here in Jordan they like to put a sauce on top of the hummus that consists of hot peppers, garlic and lemon juice - it is soooo good.

Kiwi - the fruit, not the people. I stopped in on a class the other day and that was the question being debated - when you hear the word “kiwi” do you think first of the fruit or the person. My friend said the fruit, I said the person. Half the class cheered for her, the other half cheered for me.

Halawa - This is the round of tan stuff with pistachios in it, behind the kiwi. The word needs “sweetness” and is related to the arabic word helwa which can mean “good” or “beautiful.” Just like labaneh it has many variations around the entire Meditrerranean. Here it is a mixture of tahini and sugar and some other ingredients I don’t know. It’s mixed with pistachio nuts. The consistency is soft but firm - kind of like, hmm, I can’t think of anything to compare it to right now. It’s ok, but probably not going to be extremely popular with American palates anytime soon.

OK - hope that was interesting to you. Tonight I just went to McDonald’s over in the wealthier part of town. I wanted to be able to reassure Noah that he can get a Happy Meal fix sometime. And so Victoria and I can get a huge Diet Coke with ice if we absolutely feel the need.

Down Into the Ballad and Back up

After the shebab and the kites, I got a little lost. But not really. I didn’t have a map and didn’t know exactly where I was, but knew the direction I needed to head - down and west, and preferably a little south. Because Amman is so hilly the roads wind around. There are lots of pedestrian alleys and stairs that help save time from following the roads exactly. But these end up in strange places sometimes. The first few photos are in these twisty alleys.

Then I broke out over an open space where some other shebab were playing soccer in the street. I picked my way crefully down the very steep street and sand lot. As I got closer to the ballad I found the guy making bread. Two huge flatbreads for .200 JD - not bad! Once in the ballad, I kind of snaked my way up towards “Mango” Street. That’s not its official name but, thats what it’s known on the street. On the way up I saw a wedding procession - very popular on Thursday nights (like our Fridays). I also stopped to snag a picture of The King Hussein Mosque with its double minarets and green lights. Finally on Mango Street I found an place to snap a pic looking back at Jebel Ashrafiyeh and down into the busy ballad. I eventually made it back to my hotel. What I love about Amman is that I can walk all over like this and never be worried about safety. It’s not that crime doesn’t happen - but violent crime is extremely rare. I would never advise a woman to make this walk alone. But it’s interesting - this part of the world that gets a bad rap for eing so violent, is actually quite peaceful on a night like tonight. There might be something to the traditional muslim greeting, “peace be with you.” Maybe, it’s hard to say that and hear that all day without actually believing it. Enjoy the pics. I’m off for some shut-eye.

Here’s the wedding procession - oh the guy in the silver car in the pics above was in the line of cars and wanted me to take his picture.

Shebab Flying Kites at Sundown

I found some shebab (guys - usually youth or kids) out on the roof of a seemingly abandoned building flying some kites just as the sun was setting and the call to prayer was sounding. One guy was very interested in me taking his picture and then looking at it on the camera. The videos are low quality - sorry - had to go that route to get them to upload, but you can still hear the call to prayer. (You may need to let the video load first and then play it.) Enjoy!

Sunset over Amman

After checking out the Abu Darwish Mosque (from the outside at least - I don’t think they let visitors in like they do at the King Abdullah 1 (Blue) mosque on the other side of town). I meandered my way down the hillside into the ballad. Meandered is the operative word. Think of Amman like Rome meets San Francisco. It’s built up over 19 hillsides. Each hillside is it’s own little neighborhood, and the valley that snakes its way around them is the ballad or downtown (or old city) area with shops and some public buildings and some tourist attractions like the Roman Amphitheater. These shots are looking towards the west and Jebel Amman, where I am staying - as well as some other sections of town.

Take note of the flagpole. It is the world’s largest freestanding flagpole. (Although I’m finding info that there is another Jordanian one in Aqaba that is a couple of feet taller - no matter it’s very impressive). Also see if you can find the huge blue domed mosque to the right hand side of some of the pics. I’ll post some close up pics in a day or two (when I get over there) and you’ll see just what kind of distance we are talking about. There was also this rusted out old miniature ferris wheel, like a kiddie ride at the fair, sitting next to the trash dumpsters. I tried to shoot the sun setting on the one of the big hotels over in Jebel Amman through the spokes of the ferris wheel. Enjoy!

Steeples in Amman

There are neighborhood mosques everywhere in Amman. That shouldn’t surprise anyone. Many of them are striking and quite beautiful. But there are also some cool churches. Here are some steeples with the Amman cityscape in the background. I found these towards the top of Jebel Ashrafiyeh within blocks of each other and also the Abu Darwish Mosque. I think these speak for themselves.

Abu Darwish Mosque in Ashrafiyeh

So I ended up walking to the top of the hill that the Ashrafiyeh neighborhood sprawls out over. I really wanted to see the Abu Darwish, or Black and White Mosque. It was built in 1961 with this very interesting design. I haven’t been able to figure out who Abu Darwish or Darwish were. In Arab cultures it is customary to take on a nickname when you have your first child. So Abu Darwish is the “Father of Darwish.” If you know you Islamic history you’ve heard of Abu Bakr. He was the “Father of Bakr.” The cool thing is that Victoria and I will be Abu and Umm Nuh (Arabic for Noah) - or the Father & Mother of Peace. (If Noah meand peace in Arabic like it does in English/Hebrew - will have to check it out.)

I tried to take advantage of the light from the setting sun. Also note the green lights on the minaret. IN Islam Green is the color of heaven and the minarets point to heaven.